Contrast

Well, the mighty borough of Lochaber was a far different prospect at the weekend than my last visit.

I stayed in a wee cottage in Duror with a whole international melange of folk, many of whom were yet to experience the highlands. The highlands didn't disappoint, showing an uncharacteristic tendency towards clement weather and providing japes a-plenty for first-time climbers.

On Sat I plodded up Observatory Ridge with Manjoe. It's a superb route with wonderfully varied climbing, although finding protection and belays was time consuming. Joe deserves maximum hero points for leading the first pitch with nary a bit of gear betwixt myself and he. Here's some photos:





After a late start on Sunday we headed for Scotland's Most Photographed Mountain™, Buchaille Etive Mor. Being a (relatively) small hill, it provides the option of a short day, and routes such as North Buttress and Curved Ridge providing fun in any condition.

On arriving at the base of curved ridge I was surprised to see the number of people who were inappropriately equipped for the climbing. The lower sections of rock were somewhat bare, making axes and crampons more hindrance than help, yet there were several parties struggling their way up in full ice-climbing regalia. You really do have to worry about some folk when a numpty like me can exhibit more common sense than them.

The ridge was wintrier higher up, becoming somewhat of a snowy staircase. The views across Rannoch Moor from there are mindblowing, though, and the company was good fun so there were many larks to be had as we romped to the top. More Photos:





I can't help but feel that the days of great weather were well deserved after so many soggy trudges this year. I suppose that one of the great things about Scottish climbing is that when the days of great weather come along, they seem so much sweeter than, say in the alps where good weather is more common. Here's to hoping for a few more sunny weekends before the winter expires!

Aaalriiight.

I had an interview just over a week ago. It went a bit like this:

Ok, so it was for secondary teaching, but I got the place anyway. Go Me!

Lochaber Winter Trip - Day Four

Mr Blue Sky
Please tell us why
You had to hide away for so long
Where did we go wrong?

Today the ming was in full effect here in the West so we busted a move over to the Cairngorms. Alex and I decided to go and have a poke at the mega-classic Route Major on Carn Etchecan, which lies over in the Loch Avon basin.

The basin is a truly spectacular place - just the promise of a glimpse of the deep blue loch being towered over by Shelterstone crag is enough to carry me through the slog over the cairngorm plateau. And the climbing there is incredible.

Unfortunately, our route finding skills were left lacking today, so we ended up 'new routing' and climbing ourselves into a bit of a corner. One very awkward abseil later and we were back on the corrie floor. Curses, foiled again.

Nevertheless, Mr Blue sky made an appearance, so there were views like these:





Not all was lost, then, and after a quick ascent of a rather spindrifty Castle Gates Gully we high-tailed it across the plateau, bumping into Gaz and Jones on the way:





So, another potentially frustrating day on the hill, but the climbing we did do was fun and the views were well worth it. Just goes to show that the odd bout of shitty weather and a case of incompetence needn't necessarily ruin a day out.

Lochaber Winter Trip - Day Three

What happened to 'The Storm of the Winter?' We didn't see much of it up here.

Nevertheless, it seemed like a good excuse for a lie-in so today we explored the limits of human tea consumption. And popped down to the Ice Factor in Kinlochleven to play on the dry-tooling wall. It's a mildly terrifying pursuit, as you're always worried that you're going to hit yourself in the face with an ice-axe, but 'tis still a lark.

Off east tomorrow, and who knows, we might even see a break in the clouds.

Lochaber Winter Trip - Day Two

Another 5.45 start today, although leaving bed was made easier this morning by the absence of a screaming blizzard hitting the window. Nevertheless, the weather was still on the 'unsettled' side, so we all knew we were in for some good, honest Scottish Winter Ming.

In previous years the walk-in to Ben Nevis has started with the most unpleasant excuse for a path you can think of. It's a bog, and it's steep so it takes about 3 times the energy to climb than a normal path. Fortunately, our good friends in the Forestry Commission have built a new path through the forest which is not only shorter, but immeasurably better surfaced so it's a dream to ascend. It's still quite steep (what do you expect? You're climbing Ben Nevis ffs), but today it felt like a gift from a benevolent. smiling lumberjack. Hooray for that.

Myself and Jo decided to head for the mega-classic North East Buttress via the Slingsby's chimney start. The chimney itself is supposed to be trivially easy in good condition, but we found it plastered with soft, useless snow making progress time-consuming and tenuous. There were many emotional moments, and that section of the route took far longer than we expected but to top that all off, the weather turned seriously unpleasant as I topped out. Lukcily only my nose knew it was winter:



The voice of common sense blew in on the wind and told us to get the fluff off the hill so that we did. Backing off a route can be frustrating, but a big part of the whole climbing game is knowing when to throw in the towel and head for the warm glow of civilisation.

Tomorrow looks like a bit of a storm is hitting, so it's time to hunker down with a bumper box of tea bags and a foot long battenberg. All the ice high up is fattening, so there's likely to be some sport later in the week. Until then, it's loafing time.

Lochaber Winter Trip - Day One

I'm 10metres from my last piece of gear and I'm starting to feel the burn in my arms. I've finally found that clump of hero turf to sink my ice axes and relax. Just a few moments of scratching and faffing until I can make myself safe and then continue to the sweet sanctuary of the ledge above. I think I can feel my axes move, but I put it to the back of my mind as I search for the fissure I need. The next thing I see is my adze flying towards my face - SHIIIIIIIIII.....

*BEEEP BEEEEEEP BEEEEEEEEP*

I'm gasping awake, tongue glued to the roof of my mouth with the taste of stale adrenaline. It's 5.45am and I've been nightmaring about the dreaded winter climbing fall again. Now I have to face the very real nightmare that can be the winter climbing walk-in. Time to chomp down some oats and head for the hills.

Fast forward and hour, and we're still sat in the car in the Ben Nevis car park. It's truly apocalyptic outside, and we're not even considering braving the maelstrom. It's another wash-out.



And so, I've spent the first of my 5 days up here in Lochaber sat in a Polo listening to Austrian Scheisse Rock and swinging around Fort William's premier technicolour dungeon:



Oh well, there's always tomorrow.